It’s not until you’re bobbing about in a tiny kayak in the middle of the river that you begin to appreciate the sheer scale of the Thames. Never before have I kayaked on anything this wide, deep and cold, says Juliette Dyke.
There is stillness here but it is not still. This resting place is well visited… It’s a frosty, crisp day but sunlight remains shut out. Inside the cemetery gates, day swerves abruptly into dusk.